Tuesday, September 30, 2014

The Greyhound Asylum

Recently, I was riding a train through Harper’s Ferry, West Virginia when I spotted a dopey-looking fat man with a shiny bald head and an oversized black T-shirt that read I LOVE TRAINS.  When the train pulled into the station and stopped briefly, he marveled at the blue hunk of steel.  When the train chugged away, the man turned around and walked away.  I couldn’t fathom why any sensible person would take time out of their day to salivate over a vessel designed for mass transport on a fixed set of lines.  Then I rode the bus.

I wanted to take the train from Florida to Louisiana, but Hurricane Katrina destroyed the railroad tracks from Jacksonville to New Orleans.  Nine years later, they still haven’t been fixed, so I was forced to ride a Greyhound. 

My journey began in Tampa, Florida inside a harshly illuminated bus terminal.  I sat upon a wire-metal chair that threatened to buckle under my 180-pound frame.  I attempted to read my Kindle but was too distracted by the quirky characters around me.  Just outside the glass doors, there was a thin, haggard man dressed nicely in dirty clothing.  He held a water bottle to his ear like a telephone and spoke emphatically through the plastic as though communicating to the hydrogen oxide molecules.

A bearded man opened the door and chomped on a banana.  In between bites, he babbled incoherently and then retreated to his exterior sanctuary. 

A few chairs away from me, a fat man muttered to himself while lugging three bulky bags around the station.  He would bicker something unintelligible, pick up his luggage, and relocate to a space three chairs away.  He repeated this process several times during my hour-long wait. 

The Greyhound website advised me to be at the station an hour before my departure time.  Apparently, what they mean by this is that if you don’t heed this advice, you would miss the show performed by the local lunatics.

Who are these people talking to? I wondered.  I checked all their ears for headphones or Bluetooth extensions, but I found none.  I wanted to give these people a fair trial before I deemed them insane. 

After a trip to the restroom, where I found splattered urine all over the toilet seats, I realized I was not at a bus station but in an asylum waiting to be rescued.  

I scrubbed my hands and emerged from the bathroom assuredly infected with some invisible disease.  Then I took a seat next to a harmless-looking woman. 

I attempted to read a few more pages of my book when the woman next to me blasted the volume on her smart phone.  She decided that everyone in the bus station wanted to hear her exercise video.  While the thumb-sized man on her screen shouted ways to tone your thighs to the beat of the music, I exchanged looks with a man across from me who was roughly my age.  Without using words, our eyes spoke volumes.  In that instant, we verified each other’s sanity, and we realized that our mothers did a magnificent job raising us to be courteous and civilized people.


Finally, the bus swooped in to save me until it abandoned me in another terminal in Orlando.  During my lay-over, I snacked on trail-mix and read a few chapters while sitting on another questionable bench.  I was making great progress through the book when another man with discourteous habits and zero self-awareness perched upon a divider that was not meant to be sat upon.  He was wearing vibrant orange cargo shorts that sagged underneath his boxer-covered backside, but I actually admired his overall ensemble because his baseball cap matched his shorts and his shoes.  He, too, played loud music and sang foul lyrics to an older woman I assumed was his mother. 

“I hit you with a left,” he rapped, “I hit you with a right.  And beat the pussy up.”

He continued this refrain and laughed each time he completed his verse.  I respected his tireless endurance but eventually grew annoyed with his boisterous antics.  Midnight was approaching, and a few travelers curled up on the benches to catch some shut-eye while waiting for the bus.  Paying no mind to those around him, the man repeatedly implored his mother to watch his performance.  Although he must’ve been in his late 20s, he still sought his mother’s attention like an impatient, whining infant. 

Miraculously, the man left the station by his mother’s side, and it was during that glorious moment of quiet that nearly convinced me of the plausibility of divine intervention.  After yet another inexplicable bout of behavior, a burly white man next to me made eye contact with me.  His forearms were thick with muscle, and his boots looked worn-out. 

“Are you going to be around here for a few minutes?” he asked me, but I understood what he really wanted to say.

“I’ll guard your stuff,” I said with as much authority as I could muster.  He laughed because I saw right through his question.  I rarely find myself wielding such powerful, unspoken truths during strained moments. I relished the opportunity to sound tough and deliver quotable dialogue. 

As the man walked to the restroom, I wondered: Why did he ask me? Do I look trustworthy?  Or did he trust me because I’m white, and there were a lot of black people around?  Did he think we could form an immediate bond due to a common skin pigmentation?  That must mean he assumes the inclination to steal is directly related to the melanin levels and the epidermis’ exposure to ultraviolet radiation.  I harbored no racist thoughts.  In the bus terminals, I distrusted everybody equally.

In order to avoid another episode, I stepped outside and began walking laps around the station to help me stay awake.  Before I reached the end of the parking lot, a cabbie approached me and asked me if I needed a ride.  I told him I was waiting for a bus and I was wandering around just to kill time.

“You don’t want to walk around here,” he said with a Caribbean accent.  “It is the ghetto, you know what I mean? You can get robbed.”

I thanked him for the advice and reluctantly went back inside to bide my time on the uncomfortable, cushion-less chairs.  There is only one restaurant in the Orlando bus station that offers sandwiches, burgers, hot dogs, fries, yogurt, apples wrapped in plastic, juices and sports drinks.  If you don’t like what’s on the menu, you could brave the ghetto and walk for miles to find a McDonald’s, or you could peruse the vending machines. Like a jumpy squirrel on the lookout for predators, I nibbled on my honey-roasted peanuts with shifty eyes.

The buses are only slightly more welcoming than the terminals.  There’s a slight, but persistent tang of urine wafting in the air-conditioned atmosphere that you never completely adjust to.  I didn’t manage to snag a window-seat, so I spent an endless night attempting in vain to find a comfortable vertical position in which to sleep.  My spine throbbed when I slouched and stretched out my legs.  With perfect posture, I didn’t feel relaxed enough for rapid eye movement.  Eventually I gave up on sleep, and that’s when I smelled marijuana burning. 

Immediately after detecting the stench of weed, I heard a man coughing violently.  Later, I saw this same man fall asleep with his head suspended upside down in the aisle.  When we disembarked in Tallahassee, he caused a scene as the passengers lined up near the bus to collect their luggage.  This man had a military build and stubble that promised to sprout into a thick beard if allowed enough time.  If he orchestrated his facial muscles one way, he looked like a man you could immediately respect because of his confident stature.  But the man composed himself with the dignity of a high-school bully. 

He accused a woman of stealing his salad while he slept and threatened to call the cops on the bus driver.  His evidence was that the woman was sitting across the aisle from him, and that his salad was missing.  He had left it on the floor under him, and when he woke up it was gone.  He held the woman accountable due to her proximity, and he blamed the bus driver for allowing such a crime to happen on his watch. 

As I listened to his testimony, I began to realize why everyone around me was acting so crazy.  Stranded from civilization, we had entered dangerous terrain where missing salads not only warrant questions but full-scale investigations.  I vowed never to travel by bus again.  The next time I needed to cover a lot of ground I would fly over these lunatics as they bickered over heavily-dressed lettuce. 

If I ever set foot inside a bus again, I feared what would happen to me.  My brain would deteriorate causing me to misplace my snacks, but I would have a plan.  After punching a few buttons on my mobile device, I’d speak to my imaginary lawyer through a plastic bottle of Gatorade.

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